Nucleus hives, or nucs (pronounced ‘nukes’), are small hives usually used for housing partially developed colonies on between three to six frames. Their key design dimensions and features match full sized hives (so they are specified as National nucs, Langstroth nucs and so on) so that frames can be readily transferred between hives and nucs. Although nucs are generally used for periods of weeks to months in the active season, colonies can be successfully overwintered and kept longer term in nucs.
In the 1930’s classic ‘A Manual of Beekeeping’, E.B. Wedmore observed that,
almost every emergency of management can be met by putting something into, or taking something out of a nucleus.
Common applications include:
- Transferring bees when buying and selling
- Swarm control (the ‘nuc’ method)
- Catching/hiving a swarm
- Use as a mating nuc
- Queen introduction
Like full-sized hives, nucs can be made from wood or polystyrene, and even Correx. Polystyrene is an attractive option, offering improved insulation for a small colony and at a relatively low price.
Like so many things in beekeeping, there is no ideal choice. It’s up to the beekeeper to decide which nucleus or mating nuc works best for them.
Points to think about when considering buying a nucleus hive are:
- Integral floor or not?
- Is the insulation adequate for its intended use?
- What type of feeder?
- Frame runners or not?
- Can the nuc or mating hive be enlarged with another brood box?
- Nucs for transporting or posting bees
- Nucs or mini-nucs for queen-rearing
Integral floor or not?
The advantage of integral floors is that the nucs are relatively easy to move – either with, or without bees. The advantage of a separate floor is that you can move aside the brood box with all the bees to clean the floor when necessary.
Some of the most well-known polystyrene nucs, like Maisemore and Paynes, use integral floors – however, Maisemore also sell a National poly nucleus with a separate floor. Nucs from other makes that have separate floors include Abelo, Thorne’s Everynuc, and most sturdy wooden nucs (but not plywood nucs).
Insulation
An overwintering nuc should be well-insulated (polystyrene or wood with added insulation above the crown board). Check the thickness of roofs when considering a polystyrene nucleus. They differ. Thorne’s Everynuc is good, and some polystyrene nucleus manufacturers have started to increase the thickness of their nucs’ roofs (both Paynes and Maisemore).
A plywood nucleus is adequate for summertime use, and a Correx nucleus should only be used for brief periods – for example, to sell or post bees, or to keep handy in the apiary (for example, to temporarily store a queen on the comb on which she was found while inspecting the rest of the hive).
Feeders
Choosing the right feeder for syrup or fondant is often difficult.
Paynes have an integral side feeder which is popular with bee farmers as they don’t need to carry extra equipment to their apiaries, but often unpopular with hobbyists – particularly when bees are to be transferred from the Paynes nucleus to another hive as you can’t turn the nuc upside down to knock out the last bees without spilling syrup everywhere.
Most polystyrene nucs are offered with Miller-type feeders, some (for example, Maisemore) with the option of turning the syrup feeder into a fondant feeder by removing the central weirs.
The problem with Miller-type feeders is squashing bees when replacing the feeder – particularly after a mid-winter oxalic acid treatment when bees are clustered underneath the feeder and on top of the frames.
Using an eke and a clear polycarbonate crown board with a feeding hole over which a rapid feeder or a tub of fondant can be placed might be a better solution. Most polystyrene nuc manufacturers offer 14×12 extensions or supers for sale which can be used as ekes.
Frame runners or not?
Some polystyrene nucs do not have frame runners (for example, Paynes – see photo above). It’s preferable to choose a nuc with frame runners to avoid squashing bees when replacing frames – but be aware that some of these have very little bee space above the top bars which can be a problem when using Miller-type feeders as mentioned earlier. BS Honey Bees’ poly nucs (see photo below) appear to have allowed sufficient space between the top bars and the feeder to reduce the risk of squashing bees.
Can the nucleus or mating hive be enlarged with another brood box?
Most nucs can be enlarged with brood boxes, but there are exceptions – for example, Thorne’s Polynuc (Thorne’s Everynuc can be enlarged – however, for some strange reason, you have to ask Thornes for extra brood boxes or ekes as they do not publish them on their website). BS Honey Bees do not offer brood boxes for their nucs, but they are compatible with Maisemore’s nucs.
Check before you buy a nuc because being able to enlarge a nuc can come in very handy. This is also the case with mating hives (see photos below).
Nucs for transporting or posting bees
Most nucs, when properly tied together, are suitable for transporting bees – but you may need a travel screen for longer journeys – for example, Maisemore’s travel lid.
Cheap and lightweight Correx nucleus boxes are ideal for selling or posting bees and, as already mentioned, to keep handy in the apiary while inspecting colonies.
Mating nucs and mini-nucs for queen-rearing
All nucleus hives can be used for queen-rearing, but some are more dedicated for that purpose – for example the BS Honey Bees nucleus can be divided into two (photo above), allowing for two queens to be raised side by side on three brood frames each.
Mini nucs or mating nucs require even fewer bees to raise a queen until she can be transferred to a larger colony. They vary in size from very small (for example, mini-nucs like Apideas that only need about 300 bees as a starter colony) to slightly larger (for example Swienty’s Mini Plus mating nucs). Abelo’s mating nucs are similar in size to the Swienty Mini Plus, but can also be divided into two.
As with nucleus hives, choosing a mating nuc that can be enlarged is a good option. It can help to keep a queen in the mini hive or mating nuc a bit longer if necessary until she can be moved to a larger colony, or even to overwinter the colony (with extra protection).
